Tea in the mountains and good company
A chance meeting with a solo foreign adventurer helped me reflect on Pakistan’s enchanting beauty in new light
By
Nabil Tahir |
November 10, 2024
SWAT: As autumn's warmth wanes, Kalam's lush valleys transform into a kaleidoscope of gold, amber, and crimson. The majestic Mahodand Lake shines like a sapphire, reflecting the surrounding mountains' rust-hued grandeur.
In Hunza, apricot and cherry trees stand bare, their branches etched against the sky like delicate pen and ink drawings. The ancient fortresses of Karimabad and Baltit seem to rise from the earth, their stone facades glowing golden in the fading light.
With the winter's chill beginning to bite, Kalam's meadows turn into a serene canvas of white, with snowflakes gently falling onto the valley's rolling hills. Hunza's snow-capped peaks shimmer like diamonds, their rugged beauty softened by the gentle silence of the season.
As I embarked on my own journey to Kalam, nestled in the heart of the Swat Valley, I chanced upon a Scottish-Spanish adventurer who had also been drawn to this enchanting land. Together, we navigated Pakistan's breathtaking natural wonders, discovering hidden gems and unexpected delights along the way.
Marcos – the solo traveler
This was the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable encounter. It was there, within the towering mountains, that I met Marcos Lopez Moreau – a kindred spirit with a tale of adventure and discovery.
The person who started his journey in October this year, from the beautiful mountain ranges and landscapes of Pakistan was amazed to see the beauty of the country that is often labeled as dangerous. But the effort to start this tour was not easy for Marcos.
Perched on a hilltop in Kalam, our conversation began with a breathtaking view of the valley below. As we wound our way down to the quaint Quetta Hotel café in Kalam Bazar, the gentle rustle of leaves and the soft hum of the village replaced the crisp mountain air. Settled into a cozy corner, Marcos cradled his steaming cup of tea, his eyes aglow with an unmistakable sense of freedom.
With a quiet conviction that commanded attention, he shared his remarkable story. "I sold everything," he declared, his voice infused with a deep satisfaction. "Every possession I owned – all gone." The simplicity of his words belied the courage and transformation that had brought him to this moment.
The question lingered: what drives someone to abandon the comforts of home for the unknown? “Pakistan's mountains,” he replied, his gaze drifting toward the Himalayas. “I'd heard tales of their breathtaking beauty, their rugged majesty from a Pakistani friend on mine back in Scotland. I had to see it for myself.”
But it was more than just the breathtaking landscapes that had captivated Marcos, whose journey began in Pakistan's northern frontier, where the Karakoram Range stretches toward the sky – it was the people, the culture, and the warmth that radiated from every corner of this country.
"I feel very welcomed by the people here," Marcos said, his Spanish accent infused with a hint of wonder. "They're curious, warm, and helpful. If you have any kind of problem, everyone is just going to be there to help you out." He chuckled, recalling instances where locals had gone out of their way to assist him, from offering tea to sharing stories about their villages.
From Kalam, Marcos ventured into the Naltar Valley, where lush meadows and crystal-clear lakes mesmerized him. He marveled at the ancient rock carvings in the Hunza Valley and hiked to the base of Rakaposhi, one of the world's most beautiful mountains.
Marcos' journey had begun on October 1st, when he arrived in Pakistan, eager to explore the country's northern frontier. His friend, from Pakistan, had regaled him with tales of Pakistan's natural beauty and hospitality, and Marcos had been hooked. "He told me about all the marvelous things about Pakistan," Marcos recalled. "The mountains, the people, the food – and after so much wait I am traveling here, I can corroborate that everything he told me was true."
Switzerland of the East
As he traveled through Gilgit-Baltistan, Marcos marveled at the stunning valleys and villages, each one is evidence to Pakistan's untamed beauty. He trekked through the majestic glaciers of Pasu, and hiked to the breathtaking Swat Valley, dubbed the "Switzerland of the East." Each place had left an indelible mark on his heart, but it was the people that had truly made his experience unforgettable.
"I have enjoyed so much all Gilgit-Baltistan," Marcos said, his eyes shining with enthusiasm. "And now K-P has been absolutely amazing." He spoke of the ancient rock carvings in the Hunza Valley, and the majestic fortresses of Karimabad and Baltit, their stone facades glowing golden in the fading light.
When asked about his favorite destination so far, Marcos hesitated, "It's very difficult to choose, but if I had to pick one, it would be Pasu." The glaciers, the Kailash Valley, and the cultural heritage of the region had left him awestruck.