General Mountaineering Thread

[ghazi52]

2 Nepalese climbers scale Nanga Parbat​

Jamil Nagri
July 3, 2022

FRENCH skier and climber Mathieu Maynadier and Leo Slemett at the Diran Peak base camp.—Courtesy Mathieu Maynadier

GILGIT: Two climbers from Nepal scaled Nanga Parbat, and two French mountaineers summited Diran peak on Saturday.

Sakhawat Hussain, the managing director of Summit Karakoram, told Dawn that Naoko Watanabe from Japan and Sanu Sherpa from Nepal scaled Nanga Parbat, the world’s ninth-highest mountain at 8,126 metres, on Saturday at 5:14am.

Nanga Parbat is often considered one of the most difficult of the 14 eight-thousanders — a peak towering above 8,000 metres — with steep rock faces and the risk of avalanches and rockfalls. No wonder only 29 summits have been made at this mountain in the last 10 years.

However, this year round 100 international climbers will attempt to scale the peak.

Nine climbers successfully topped the peak in last two days on Friday and Saturday. More expedition team members are on the way to summit as weather condition at mountain said to clear till May 6.

Before closing of the weather window, many climbers will attempt to reach the summit.

Pakistani mountaineer Sheroze Kashif from Lahore has also started his journey to attempt to scale Nanga Parbat from base camp.

According to his official Facebook page Shehroze has completed first rotation to Camp 1 of Nanga Parbat and is safely back at basecamp.

Meanwhile, two French skiers and climbers Mathieu Maynadier and Leo Slemett summited Diran peak (7,266-metre) situated in Nagar and returned to base camp.

They confirmed they had safely returned to Base Camp but have kept quiet about the most interesting detail: did they achieve the first ski descent of the mountain, as they had planned.

In a page on Facebook Leo Slemett said, “First time I saw Diran peak four years ago. After the expedition I knew that there were as many reasons to come back as mountains to ski in Pakistan.”

Mathieu Maynadier said “We arrived yesterday at 6pm at the summit! We’re super happy with @leoslemett and we’re back at base camp!”

He said more news in the next few days.

 

[ghazi52]

 

[ghazi52]

Czech tourist dies at Nanga Parbat base camp after falling in ravine: officials​

Umar Bacha
July 3, 2025

A tourist from the Czech Republic died on Thursday after falling into a ravine at the Nanga Parbat base camp in Gilgit-Baltistan (GB), according to officials.

The Nanga Parbat — the world’s ninth-highest mountain — is notoriously known as the “Killer Mountain”, earning its grisly nickname after more than 30 climbers died trying to conquer it before the first successful summit in 1953.

Muhammad Qasim, coordinator to the GB chief minister, told Dawn.com: “A tragic incident occurred at the Nanga Parbat base camp around 4am as a foreign tourist, Kolouchava Klara from the Czech Republic died.”

He had attributed her death to an oxygen cylinder explosion. However, Diamer Additional Deputy Commissioner Nizamuddin told Dawn.com the climber fell from a height between Camp One and Camp Two. He said the location where she fell would be traced and the recovery operation would begin thereafter.

“The team accompanying the climber had come to the base camp and informed about her death,” the official said.

“There were initial reports that the woman had died due to an oxygen cylinder explosion, but it was later confirmed that she had fallen into a ravine, which was the cause of her death.”

Qasim said she was staying in Chilas with her team since June 15 and departed for the base camp with it on June 16. They had reached Bonner Base Camp on June 17, he added.

He added that the authorities launched an investigation into the incident following the GB government’s direction and all possible assistance was being provided to the victim’s team.

A rescue operation using a helicopter was planned for tomorrow to search for Klara, he added.

In May, two climbers died on Mount Everest in the March-May climbing season of the world’s highest peak.

Last August, a climber from Skardu, Murad Sadpara, succumbed to his injuries, a day after the Pakistan Army had launched an operation to rescue him from GB’s Broad Peak.

 

[ghazi52]

French, Pakistani mountaineers pioneer new Golden Peak route​

New 1,800 m route, named 'Zindabad', is expected to be one of this summer’s most notable climbs in country

Correspondent
July 03, 2025

In early June, French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier and Pakistan’s Muizzuddinn pioneered a new route up the East Ridge of Spantik (7,027 m), locally known as Golden Peak, in the Karakoram range.

The ascent, which took place from June 2 to 7, was the first major mountain opening in Pakistan led by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, dubbed “Zindabad (long live)", is graded M5 A1 at an 80° incline. It is expected to be one of this summer’s most notable climbs in the country.

The duo spent 20 days acclimatising at the base camp, waiting out 10 days of poor weather before establishing higher camps at 5,200m and 5,800m. Despite the risk, they took advantage of a weather opening, enduring fresh snow and unstable slabs over five days. Just metres shy of the summit, they aborted due to a dangerous wind slab, but celebrated the route’s completion as a symbol of national pride.

Their descent took 36 hours via the normal route, with a final bivouac at 5,800 m. For Muizz, this achievement is the first phase of a wider goal: to become Pakistan’s first UIAGM-certified mountain guide.

Muizz plans to begin his training in France this summer. If successful, he will become certified by 2029, and is aiming to help revive domestic guide programmes and training schools in Pakistan.
.

Spantik has a respected history of technical climbs, notably the 2000 French–Slovenian ascent of its north face “Golden Pillar”. Maynadier, already an advocate for Pakistani alpinism, has achieved several first ascents and ski descents in the region.

 

[ghazi52]

PM appoints Qatari princess as brand ambassador after she scales Nanga Parbat​

Dawn.com
July 8, 2025

Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif on Tuesday appointed Qatari mountaineer and royal family member Sheikha Asma Al Thani as the brand ambassador for Pakistan’s mountains and tourism after she recently successfully summited Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain on Earth located in Gilgit-Baltistan region.

Known as the “Killer Mountain,” the 8,126-metre-high peak is considered one of the world’s most dangerous climbs due to its severe weather conditions and rough terrain.

 

[ghazi52]

In a post on Instagram, Sheikha Asma described the relentless challenges she faced on her route to the summit and the emotional toll of the ascent.

“My ninth 8000er and one of the toughest climbs I’ve faced. This mountain tested me in ways I didn’t expect, from black ice beneath my feet to rockfall every few seconds. A constant reminder of how fragile life truly is,” she wrote.

“But even in that danger, there was growth. There was surrender and there was strength I didn’t know I still had. I climb not just to reach summits but to return to what matters, to strip away the noise and reconnect with myself,” she added.

“This mountain will stay with me forever.”

Sheikha Asma hoisted Qatar’s national flag at the summit and becomes the first Qatari woman to do so. Her earlier summits include Mount Everest, K2 and Makalu.

 

[ghazi52]

Russian couple summits Nanga Parbat without additional oxygen​

Jamil Nagri
July 14, 2025



Russian climber Denis Urubko and his wife Maria Cardell also charted a new route for ascent of the mountain.—Dawn

GILGIT: Renowned Russian climber Denis Urubko and his wife Maria Cardell successfully summited Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in alpine style while also charting a new route for ascent. Mr Urubko, with his wife Maria Cardell, arrived at base camp on Saturday and scaled the killer mountain without using supplementary oxygen.

Karim Shah Nizari, a friend of the climbers, told Dawn that the duo successfully opened a new route via Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat. According to the Russian media, they scaled the mountain fast and light and returned safely to the base camp after the summit.

With this achievement, Mr Urubko has made 28 ascents of the eight-thousanders, with seven new routes opened and two first winter ascents, including Makalu in 2009 and Gasherbrum II in 2011. He has also scaled all 14 highest mountains in the world without using supplementary oxygen.

Nanga Parbat is more southern and western than Pakistan’s four other eight-thousanders peaks, including K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Nanga Parbat, also known as the killer mountain, is situated in the Himalayas. During the ongoing season, at least 24 climbers, including five Pakistani nationals, have summited the peak.


Injured Polish climber

Meanwhile, a rescue team brought to Camp 1 an injured Polish climber who sustained a leg injury on Broad Peak on Sunday.

Waldemar Kowalewski suffered a fracture above Camp II on Saturday when a snow avalanche hit the trio during their rotation.As a result of the incident, Mr Kowalewski suffered a leg fracture at an altitude of 6,500 metres, while his two colleagues Jarek and Hassan surviving without any injuries. After the accident, a rescue team was dispatched to bring the Polish climber down to the base camp.

According to Karrar Haidri, the vice president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the injured mountaineer had been brought down to Camp 1 on Sunday and the rescuers were assessing the safest option for further descent. According to organisers, Pakistan Army helicopters will airlift the Polish climber from the Broad Peak base camp to Skardu today (Monday).

 

[ghazi52]

Local mountaineer Iftikhar Hussain dies as 4 caught in K2 avalanche​

Jamil Nagri
July 19, 2025

A file photo of Iftikhar Hussain, a mountain climber and porter from Sadpara, Skardu, holding up a small flag of Pakistan while standing on a snowy peak. — File Photo via author

https://whatsapp.com/channel/0029VaMc238IiRov8okfYy3n
The body of local mountaineer Iftikhar Hussain who lost his life when his four-member international expedition team was caught in an avalanche on the K2 peak was brought to his hometown of Gilgit-Baltistan’s Skardu on Saturday, officials said.

K2, standing at 8,611 metres above sea level, is the second-highest peak in the world, attracting a host of local and foreign tourists. Last summer, GB authorities issued a total of 175 permits to climbers aspiring to conquer the mountain, despite the treacherous climb and harsh weather conditions.

The senior vice president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), Karrar Haidri, told Dawn.com that at approximately 12:30pm on Friday, an avalanche struck Camp 1 on K2, located about 500m above the base camp. Four climbers were caught in the avalanche.

“A foreign climber sustained minor injuries, while two others successfully returned to the Advance Base Camp,” Haidri said in a statement. However, high-altitude porter Iftikhar Hussain from Sadpara in Skardu lost his life in the incident.

The other climbers were Dawa Finjo Sherpa and Dawa Geljen Sherpa from Nepal, and high-altitude porter Niaz Ali from Skardu. The international team was returning from Camp 2 during their rotation for the summit at the time of the incident.

Tour operator Syed Anwar confirmed to Dawn.com that the deceased mountaineer’s body and Finjo, the injured Nepali climber, were brought from the K2 base camp to Skardu by Army Aviation helicopters on Saturday.

Hussain’s body was handed over to his family for burial, he added. Finjo was in stable condition and undergoing treatment at a government hospital in Skardu.

Two helicopters of the Pakistan Army Aviation Corps took part in the operation, Anwar said.

The expedition outfitter submitted a formal request to ACP President Major General Irfan Arshad and Askari Aviation for a helicopter operation to repatriate the deceased following the incident.

The request was approved by the army’s General Headquarters on humanitarian grounds.

Earlier this month, a tourist from the Czech Republic, Klára Kolouchová, died after falling into a ravine at the Nanga Parbat base camp in GB.

Kolouchová, 46, was part of a multinational expedition attempting to summit the mountain. Her health reportedly deteriorated at Camp 4, forcing her to abort the climb and begin her descent with Nepali Sherpa Taraman Tamang.

 

[ghazi52]

Two Pakistanis among 13 climbers scale world’s 11th highest peak Gasherbrum-I​

Jamil Nagri
July 21, 2025



GILGIT: Thirteen climbers from multiple countries, including two Pakistanis, scaled Gasherbrum-I (8,080 m) — the eleventh-highest peak in the world — on Sunday.

Summit Karakoram’s Sakhawat Hussain said despite significant challenges currently faced by mountaineers, including the dry season, reduced manpower and unpredictable weather conditions, four members of a foreign expedition team comprising Pavlo Sydorenko from Ukraine, Magdalena Arcimowicz from Poland, Migma Dorchi Sherpa, and Pem Lakpa Sherpa from Nepal successfully summitted Gasherbrum-I on Sunday.

Mr Hussain said the team reached the summit of Gasherbrum-I at 11:08am (PST).

He added that this accomplishment reflects their hard work and dedication in the face of extreme challenges.

“We wish the entire team a safe and successful descent,” he said.

Three members of Seven Summit Treks, including Mr Marco Confortola from Italy, Lakpa Sherpa and Pasang Ngima Sherpa from Nepal, also summited Gasherbrum-I on Sunday around 11:50am.

Marco made the successful ascent without the use of supplemental oxygen. He is one of the senior mountain guides, having received the UIAGM/IFMGA International Alpine Guide certification in 1993.

Meanwhile, on Sunday at 10:44am PST, a three-member Gasherbrum-I expedition team led by Imagine Nepal also successfully summited the peak.

The team included Dr Sashko Kedev from Macedonia, Mr Wang Zhong from China and Nepali climbers Dawa Gyalje Sherpa and Ngima Nuru Sherpa. Dr Kedev’s summit of Gasherbrum-I marks the completion of all 14 eight-thousanders.

Mr Wang Zhong has now completed 10 of the 14 peaks. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, who completed all 14 in 2024, summited Gasherbrum-I again, while Ngima Nuru Sherpa now stands at 11 out of 14.

Likewise, Abid Baig from Hunza summited Gasherbrum-I without Sherpa support and supplementary oxygen on Sunday.

Abid Baig has already climbed both Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. He also holds the national speed cycling record for the route from Balochistan to the China border, completing it in 11 days.

Shah Doulat from Shimshal, Hunza, also successfully reached the summit of Gasherbrum-I on Sunday at 11am.

Shah Doulat has already summited K2, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum-II. He plans to summit Broad Peak next.

A large number of foreign climbers are currently at the base camps of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II to attempt summits of the peaks.

However, snow avalanches, rockfall and unusual weather conditions at the eight-thousanders pose threats to climbers attempting the summits.

Sakhawat Hussain said the weather forecast for K2 and Broad Peak does not look promising in the coming days.

“As for K2, the camps are still unable to be established at Camp III, leaving the success of summiting K2, along with other peaks like GII and Broad Peak, this year in doubt. As we move forward, the team continues to monitor the situation closely, adapting to weather conditions and ensuring the safety of all members. We remain hopeful for further successes despite the tough circumstances,” he said.

Summit pushes at K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II are expected this week.

 

[ghazi52]

German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier confirmed dead after attempting Laila Peak summit​

Jamil Nagri | Imtiaz Ali Taj | AFP | Reuters
July 30, 2025



Gold medallist Laura Dahlmeier of Germany on the podium during the Pyeongchang 2018 Winter Olympics women’s 10km pursuit medals ceremony in Pyeongchang, South Korea on February 13, 2018. — Reuters/File



A photo of German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier. — Alpine Club of Pakistan

Gold medallist Laura Dahlmeier of Germany on the podium during the Pyeongchang 2018 Winter Olympics women’s 10km pursuit medals ceremony in Pyeongchang, South

German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier, who went missing two days ago while attempting to scale Gilgit-Baltistan’s Laila Peak (6,096 metres), was confirmed dead on Wednesday, according to officials.

Mountains in the north of Pakistan are a popular destination for adventure tourism, with many climbers aiming to summit prestigious peaks such as K2 and Nanga Parbat. However, rough terrain and harsh weather conditions create a challenge, frequently causing deaths and injuries.

She was climbing in alpine style with her partner, Marina Eva, also from Germany. Dahlmeier was at an altitude of approximately 5,700m when she was hit by the rock on Monday afternoon. Eva was below her on the mountain at the time. Despite being injured, Dahlmeier managed to communicate with her partner, but Eva was unable to reach her. A coordinated rescue operation was launched, involving Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters and local high-altitude porters. However, adverse weather and the difficult terrain prevented helicopters from landing at the accident site.

In a statement issued today, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) Vice President Karrar Haidri said: “German Olympic champion Laura Dahlmeier was confirmed dead on Wednesday after a tragic mountaineering accident in the high mountains of Pakistan.”


He added that “persistent adverse weather conditions had significantly hindered rescue operations in the days leading up to the announcement.”

The statement said ACP President Major General Irfan Arshad extended his condolences to the deceased’s family, friends and global mountaineering community during their time of profound loss.

Haidri said that Laura died “doing what she loved most — pushing her limits in the high mountains”. “Her strength, determination and passion have left an indelible mark on both the sporting and mountaineering communities,” he added.

GB government spokesperson Faizullah Faraq also confirmed the death in a statement,

The dangerous nature of the site made rescue efforts “impossible”, her agency said in a statement quoted by AFP on Wednesday, which confirmed her death.

“Rescue efforts to recover her failed and the operation was suspended,” the statement continued.

Her representatives told Germany’s Die Welt newspaper that Dahlmeier most likely died instantly, while her mountaineering partner was unharmed and remained at the site.

“It was Laura Dahlmeier’s express and written will that in a case like this, no one should risk their life to recover her,” they said.

“It was her wish to leave her body behind on the mountain in this case. This is also in line with the wishes of her relatives.”

 

[ghazi52]

Dahlmeier, an experienced mountaineer, had been in the region since the end of June and had already ascended the Great Trango Tower.

German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier issued a statement today calling Dahlmeier “an ambassador for our country around the world [and] a role model for peaceful, joyful, and fair coexistence across borders.”

The German Olympic Sports Confederation expressed deep sorrow at the news.

“She was more than an Olympic champion — she was someone with heart, attitude and vision,” it said in a statement on X.

Dahlmeier, who was born in the Bavarian ski town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, was also honoured by the premier of her home state, Markus Soeder.

“Laura Dahlmeier epitomised her native Bavaria in the best sense of the word: she was ambitious and successful, yet always remained humble and close to her homeland,” he said in a statement.

“Even after her active career, she shared her love of sport as a winter sports expert, member of the mountain rescue service and ski guide.”

She won seven world championship gold medals, and at the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang she became the first female biathlete to win both the sprint and the pursuit at the same Games.

Dahlmeier retired from professional competition in 2019 at the age of 25.

She went on to become a commentator on biathlon events for German broadcaster ZDF, and also took up mountaineering.

She was a certified mountain and ski guide and an active member of the mountain rescue, according to her team.

Earlier this month, a tourist from the Czech Republic, Klára Kolouchová, died after falling into a ravine at the Nanga Parbat base camp in GB.

Kolouchová, 46, was part of a multinational expedition attempting to summit the mountain. Her health reportedly deteriorated at Camp 4, forcing her to abort the climb and begin her descent with Nepali Sherpa Taraman Tamang.

 

[ghazi52]

Chitral’s local group summits Thalo Zom peak​

Bureau Report
August 7, 2025



PESHAWAR: A team of nine young mountaineers from Chitral has successfully scaled the Thalo Zom (6,050 metres) peak in the Hindu Raj range.

The team that goes by the name of Shabdaraz was led by Mueezuddin, the expedition leader, and comprised of Akmal Naveed, Mohammad Athar Azeem, Owais Ahmad, Mudassir Wali, Nasir Zaib, Sher Khan, Burhanuddin and Adil Zaman.

The team reached the summit at 9.20am on July 29, with all members returning safely and in good health.

The expedition was carried out in true alpine style — without fixed ropes, porters, or pre-established camps — demonstrating remarkable physical endurance, team coordination, and technical climbing expertise.

Feat sets precedent for future youth-led alpine expeditions

Thalo Zom was first summited in 1971 by an Austrian expedition. The Shabdaraz team ascended via the Italian Route, climbed by an Italian expedition in 2019. For descent, the team navigated a different, previously unused route, showcasing their adaptability and confidence in unexplored high-altitude terrain.

Mueezuddin is affiliated with an adventure sports initiative ‘Zom Connection’. In addition to leading the climb, he provided comprehensive technical training and mentorship to the entire team in preparation for the expedition.

His leadership was instrumental in navigating the team safely through complex glacier systems, steep rock faces, and mixed alpine terrain, playing a critical role in the overall success and safety of the mission.

Shabdaraz Thalo Zom Expedition 2025 was the first-ever local Chitrali youth-led expedition to summit any peak and lasted a total of 11 days.

The team spent three nights at the base camp: two during ascent and one night during the descent, whereas it spent a night at camp 1 at an altitude of 4,700 metres.

At camp 2, which was located at an altitude of 5,400 metres, the team spent two nights, one each during ascent and descent.

This expedition is a milestone for local mountaineering in Chitral and sets a precedent for future youth-led alpine expeditions in Pakistan’s high mountain regions. It also highlights the growing capabilities of community-based organisations like Shabdaraz to lead high-standard, self-sufficient climbing missions in the Hindu Raj and beyond, said Athar Azeem, one of the mountaineers.

He said the expedition cost up to Rs1.5 million and they received support in the form of gear from the Hindukush Snow Sports Club and the Zom Connection, a France-based mountaineering startup.

Published in Dawn, August 7th, 2025

 

[ghazi52]

Chinese mountaineer dies while descending K2 summit​

BR Web Desk
August 13, 2025

A Chinese mountaineer, Guan Jing, died on Tuesday night after being hit by falling rocks while descending from the summit of K2, the world’s second-highest peak, Karrar Haidri, vice president at Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), said in a statement.

According to the statement, the incident occurred on the Abruzzi Spur route between Camp I and Advanced Base Camp — a section notorious for frequent rockfalls. Guan had reached the summit on Monday with a group of climbers before beginning her descent.

“Recovery efforts for her body are ongoing, while other climbers who also summited K2 that day are now returning safely to base camp. In total, more than 30 climbers reached the top of K2 on Monday,” the statement read.

As per a statement Haidri posted two days ago on Facebook, a team of 15 climbers from Imagine Nepal reached the summit of K2, achieving a 100% success rate this season.

“Summiting in August is rare, as the optimal climbing window is generally in July. The 2025 season faced significant challenges from the jet stream, with high winds limiting opportunities and forcing prolonged waits at Base Camp,” he wrote.

Last month, an avalanche struck Camp 1 on K2 and resulted in the death of a local climber and minor injuries to a foreign mountaineer. The avalanche occurred around 500 meters above the base camp, catching four climbers in its path. Two managed to return safely to the Advance Base Camp, while one foreign climber suffered minor injuries, the ACP said in its statement then.

 

[ghazi52]

Historic Day on the Top of K2 8,611m

11 August 2025 will be remembered as a remarkable day in K2 history. Three strong teams stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest peak and the highest point on Earth equipped with sensors, marking yet another chapter of human endurance and teamwork.

Masherbrum Expedition Treks & Tours

Rope-fixing legends Mr. Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Madison K2 Expedition) and Chhiring Sherpa (Alpinist K2 Expedition) reached the top just minutes before the rest of their teammates, who were only 100 meters below the summit. This marks Mr. Siddhi’s seventh successful ascent of K2, an outstanding personal milestone.
Seven Summit Treks and 14 Peaks Expedition

The joint team reached the summit of K2 this morning. Climbers include:
Tao Hu – China
Eduard Kubatov – Kyrgyz Republic
Gulnur Tumbat – USA
Zhang Qingliang – China
Li Na – China
Pasang Tenje Sherpa – Nepal
Mingma Jangbu Sherpa – Nepal
Pasang Sherpa – Nepal
Sona Sherpa – Nepal
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa – Nepal

Special appreciation goes to Imagine Nepal and the rope-fixing team for their vital support in making these summits possible.
Imagine Nepal K2 Expedition

At 15:32 PKT on 11 August 2025, a team of 15 climbers from Imagine Nepal reached the summit of K2, achieving a 100 percent success rate this season. Summiting in August is rare, as the optimal climbing window is generally in July. The 2025 season faced significant challenges from the jet stream, with high winds limiting opportunities and forcing prolonged waits at Base Camp.

Led by Mingma G, the team departed Base Camp on 5 August and reached the summit today. The summit list is as follows:
Mingma G – Nepal
Jangbu Sherpa – USA
Pema Chhiri Sherpa – Nepal
Aangdu Sherpa – Nepal
Kami Sherpa – Nepal
Lakpa Sherpa – Nepal
Lakpa Tamang – Nepal
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa – Nepal
Sohail Sakhi – Pakistan
Liu Mihe – China
Dilixiati Ailikuti – China
Li Jiang – China
Guan Jing – China
Hu Yinghong – China
Maria Alexandra Danila – Romania
Highlights
Mingma G (Nepal): Completed his sixth successful K2 summit
Maria Alexandra Danila (Romania): First Romanian to summit K2
Dilixiati Ailikuti (China): Youngest climber to summit K2
Jangbu Sherpa and Sohail Sakhi: Summited without supplemental oxygen


On behalf of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Maj General Irfan Arshad HI (M) congratulates all climbers and wishes them a safe descent.
Karrar Haidri

 

[ghazi52]

Photograph of K2 from the Baltoro Glacier, taken by Vittorio Sella in 1909.

Vittorio Sella (28 August 1859 - 12 August 1943) was an Italian photographer and mountaineer, whose photographs of mountains are regarded as some of the finest ever made. Sella was born in Biella in the foothills of the Alps and acquired his interest in Alpinism from his uncle, Quintino Sella. He made a number of significant climbs in the Alps, including the first winter ascents of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa, and the first winter traverse of Mont Blanc.

He took part in several expeditions further afield, including three to the Caucasus (where a peak now bears his name), to Mount Saint Elias in Alaska, to the Rwenzori in Africa, and the 1909 expedition to K2 and the Karakoram.

The latter three expeditions were in the company of Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi. Sella continued to climb into his old age, and made his last attempt on the Matterhorn at seventy six. The attempt failed when one of his guides was injured in an accident.

The high quality of Sella's photography was in part due to his use of 30×40 cm photographic plates, in spite of the difficulty of carrying bulky and fragile equipment into remote places.