The Wildness of Darolai
An unforgettable journey through Swat’s most well-preserved and densely forested wilderness
By
Ubaid Sahil
December 28, 2025
When we announced our plan to embark on an adventure into the dense and mysterious forest of Darolai, and more notably, that Sherin Zada would be joining us, we were met with a flurry of questions. Why are you taking a blind person on such a risky hike? Isn’t bringing Sherin along just a waste of time and effort? Don’t you know the forest is home to bears? What if ou’re attacked while travelling with someone who can’t see?
And so on, the concerns kept coming.
Brushing aside all these concerns, we finalised our hiking trip to explore the spirit of community-led conservation in the dense forest of Darolai, one of the most well-preserved and thickest forests in Swat. With the possibility of encountering black bears and other wild species (if luck favoured us), we were excited to venture into this untamed wilderness, home to a rich variety of flora and fauna, and, above all, to enjoy the inspiring company of Sherin Zada.
Sherin Zada, my friend, lost his vision in childhood, yet he senses and feels the world more deeply than most of us ever could. While others see with their eyes, Sherin sees with his spirit, and on this journey, he became not only our guide in courage but also a reminder that true vision lies beyond what is visible. For him, embarking on this wilderness hike was like summiting his personal K2.
On the day of the trek, at exactly 3:35 am, my alarm woke me up. After offering the fajr prayer, I left behind the town of two rivers, Bahrain, and set out for the village of Darolai. From there, my younger brother Zakaria, Sherin Zada, our guide, and fellow adventurer Kashif, and I set off toward one of the wildest destinations we've ever dared to explore, in pursuit of our unquenchable thirst for adventure.
The enchanting forest of Darolai is exceptionally dense and remarkably well-preserved, thanks to the sustained efforts of community-led conservation. The locals have formed a committee of elders who act as guardians of the forest, strictly forbidding deforestation, hunting, and all other harmful activities. As a result of these protective measures, the forest has become a thriving sanctuary for wildlife, most notably black bears, which are commonly found in the area. In addition, a wide variety of plant species, animals, birds, and insects call this rich and untamed forest their home.
We soon found ourselves on a rugged, uneven trail strewn with rocks, surrounded by towering trees and immersed in the rich sounds and scents of nature. After a few minutes of ascent, we realised that the entire route was steep and rocky, a vertical climb that could take up to five exhausting hours to reach our first destination: Ghani Shai. It quickly became clear that this hike demanded more courage than common sense to pursue, as we pushed forward in search of a hidden natural treasure.
Since it was monsoon season, a dramatic interplay of fog, sunshine, and gentle breeze danced around us throughout the hike, a constant game of hide and seek between light and mist. Soon, we found ourselves climbing uphill, where the world below unfolded like a serene painting, breathtakingly calm and beautiful. Our path led us through cloud-kissing trees, in the quiet companionship of the mountains. Sherin Zada’s warm presence added a special charm to our wilderness adventure. The forest was so wild and untouched that only four scattered homes existed within its vastness, each one tucked far away from the other.
After six hours of a tough hike and intermittent rests, we finally reached Ghani Shai, a tranquil and secluded forest glade, gently cradled by towering trees on all sides. The peace and charm of this hidden haven were so surreal, so serene, that we couldn't resist pausing there for a while to rest and enjoy our lunch. Ghani Shai is also home to Ghani Kaka, a man deeply attached to this wild and untamed realm. Though he was away in the valley below due to some personal matters, we were warmly welcomed by his gracious son, Zaiwar Khan, the guardian of this wild heaven, whose presence added a touch of local warmth to our wilderness journey.
Being the sole resident of the wild dense jungle, Zaiwar Khan was chosen as its guardian by the preservation committee down in the valley. Under his devoted supervision, a rich variety of flora and fauna flourished in this untouched wilderness. Although he recently stepped down from the committee after a dispute, he continues to protect and preserve the ecosystem of this natural haven on his own. Our guide, Kashif, told us that Zaiwar Khan went as far as to stop livestock from grazing in the area to protect the grasslands. He also assisted local authorities in apprehending and punishing illegal loggers and timber smugglers.
He also shared with us some of his deep and indigenous knowledge of the wild. Zaiwar Khan mentioned that the jungle is home to black bears, as well as other species such as wolves, foxes, and jackals. In recent months, leopards have also been sighted, these are being reintroduced into the jungle by the wildlife authorities. He himself has faced several bear encounters and guided us on how to stay safe if we ever come across one. His advice, though valuable, instilled a sense of fear in our hearts, about the heavyweight bears that roam freely in nearly every corner of the jungle.
After enjoying Zaiwar’s company, it was time to hit the trail again through this little-disturbed wilderness. From Ghani Shai onward, the path became less steep and slightly easier to navigate. The forest grew denser, the landscape increasingly lush with vegetation, and the mist thickened with every step. For the rest of the journey, we were wrapped in a heavy veil of smog that blended beautifully with the surreal serenity of the mountains. It all felt like a magical landscape, as if the planet had just received a new terrain update.