Members Photography

[_NOBODY_]

Loaded. Hmmmm. Ammo or cash? Or both?

Cash. I only have some WW2-era sniper rifles in my village. They are only used to shoot down birds or to send signals lol.

 

[VCheng]

1/50s f/3.5 ISO1600 50mm - 50mm f/1.4 D3X.

A historic memento.

 

[VCheng]

1/60s f/4.5 ISO800 70mm - 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 D7000.

A quiet moment at the Bristol Viewpoint, Canandaigua Lake, NY.

 

[VCheng]

1/30s f/5 ISO1600 165mm - 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 D7000.

Just another simple psychotherapy session for gearheads.

 

[passer-by]

Fort Denison - Sydney

 

[passer-by]

Sydney Opera House

 

[passer-by]

One of my studio shot

 

[VCheng]

One of my studio shot

View attachment 11235
View attachment 11236

Nicely done. How did you arrange the light sources?

 

[passer-by]

Nicely done. How did you arrange the light sources?

2 Strobes with soft boxes at 45 degree and a foamboard on the opposite side of the head. You can use a hair light but it would be a bit trickier because it will bounce the light back against the model head, which shaded out the face. You can adjust it tho, but it will take longer, so I "cheated" with a foam board instead...

I am very old school in photography, I position my light in a very close position and move my light further and further away until the model eyes stop reflecting the light and show her true colour, then you move in with the light meters and get your ISO and shutter speed and then finally I adjust my F-stop to have a clear picture.

 

[VCheng]

2 Strobes with soft boxes at 45 degree and a foamboard on the opposite side of the head. You can use a hair light but it would be a bit trickier because it will bounce the light back against the model head, which shaded out the face. You can adjust it tho, but it will take longer, so I "cheated" with a foam board instead...

I am very old school in photography, I position my light in a very close position and move my light further and further away until the model eyes stop reflecting the light and show her true colour, then you move in with the light meters and get your ISO and shutter speed and then finally I adjust my F-stop to have a clear picture.

Choice of lens? I notice no 85 or 105 mm equivalent prime.

 

[passer-by]

some black and white work

Choice of lens? I notice no 85 or 105 mm equivalent prime.

I use 18-55mm lens for studio. There are no need for anything bigger than 55mm IMO, I mean you are never 6 meters away from the subject anyway, why use high power lens to distort the object? Outdoor I shoot with 55-200mm.

 

[VCheng]

some black and white work

View attachment 11241

View attachment 11242



I use 18-55mm lens for studio. There are no need for anything bigger than 55mm IMO, I mean you are never 6 meters away from the subject anyway, why use high power lens to distort the object? Outdoor I shoot with 55-200mm.

Again, nice lighting.

55mm on a crop sensor gets in the 85 mm range anyway and you use good lighting and thus don’t need a fast lens. Good DoF.

Obviously you know what you are doing here. I can learn much here. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work.

 

[passer-by]

Again, nice lighting.

55mm on a crop sensor gets in the 85 mm range anyway and you use good lighting and thus don’t need a fast lens. Good DoF.

Obviously you know what you are doing here. I can learn much here. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and work.

Thanks, black and white are always good in term of lighting, this is the unedited image.



As I already mentioned, I am old school, like very old school, I like to manipulate light myself, which to some may have been very hard or complicated to do, but if you know the trick, it's actually very easy (eg the walking back trick I mentioned before) Another key to low-intensity photography is to underexpose the model and then you contrast it with the lack of lighting on the other part of the model, in this case, you can see the model hand, chest and face but most of her other feature is hidden (her legs would also have shown as well but was covered with black tights, which is another trick for the contrast)



So when you start exposing the image, the light intensity multiplied exponentially on the reflected surface, but will only expose limited lighting on the surface that was hidden



See how the RGB bar moved? The low lighting bit didn't move much but the highlighted bit have expanded 3 to 4 folds. And this is the final product

 

[VCheng]

Thanks, black and white are always good in term of lighting, this is the unedited image.

View attachment 11246

As I already mentioned, I am old school, like very old school, I like to manipulate light myself, which to some may have been very hard or complicated to do, but if you know the trick, it's actually very easy (eg the walking back trick I mentioned before) Another key to low-intensity photography is to underexpose the model and then you contrast it with the lack of lighting on the other part of the model, in this case, you can see the model hand, chest and face but most of her other feature is hidden (her legs would also have shown as well but was covered with black tights, which is another trick for the contrast)

View attachment 11248

So when you start exposing the image, the light intensity multiplied exponentially on the reflected surface, but will only expose limited lighting on the surface that was hidden

View attachment 11250

See how the RGB bar moved? The low lighting bit didn't move much but the highlighted bit have expanded 3 to 4 folds. And this is the final product

View attachment 11251

When you say old school you really mean it!

No Adobe Lightroom?

 

[passer-by]

When you say old school you really mean it!

No Adobe Lightroom?

again, old school.........as in REALLY old school. So no Adobe lightroom or photoshop........