A trek that began as a search for Nanga Parbat became a lesson in the stories mountains carry.
Muzhira Amin
17 Aug, 2026
He was flirting with me. A crooked grin spread across his sunlit face, only partially visible through a curtain of thick coniferous forests, as he followed me on a meandering four-hour pilgrimage. At 10,800 feet above sea level, where even the Earth’s magnetic field weakens, he had an inexplicable pull. He was omnipresent, but somehow managed to elude me every time I stopped to admire his face.
It was a game of hide-and-seek.
Nanga Parbat is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth: an ice-and-scree-covered behemoth, known most for death. In the Shina and Tibetan scriptures, though, he is called
Deo Mir, the Mountain of God. In mountaineering circles, he is the ‘Killer Mountain’, given his insurmountable ego and treacherous temper.
I gathered this much from reading trip reports back in 2020, when I was planning an expedition of my own. I am no mountaineer, but I would take the liberty of calling myself an orophile, and so I settled on a relatively achievable conquest: the base camp.
One of the older accounts of reaching the base camp described the trek as a thrilling, steep and physically demanding journey marked by dramatic gorge trails, sudden weather shifts and deep isolation. At the time I encountered the sentence, I was an overenthusiastic 23-year-old journalist living in Karachi. When asked why I wanted to trek to the base camp of that particular mountain — instead of enjoying ‘just a vacation’ — I mindlessly cited Simone Moro. “It’s like a giant planet standing in front of you, seducing you to climb it,” the Italian mountaineering legend had said.
I did not want to climb the mountain — I wasn’t even equipped to do that. I just wanted to let nature lure me there. I had two beginner-level treks to my name: one at home and the other in Nepal. Both entailed only a few hours of discomfort though. But the Nanga Parbat base camp, ChatGPT and I agreed, was a ‘Type-2 kind of adventure’ for my feeble experience. Opting to do this with a group of Gen Zs I barely knew was another gamble.
A trek that began as a search for Nanga Parbat became a lesson in the stories mountains carry.
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