General Mountaineering Thread

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Naila Kiani becomes first Pakistani woman to summit 11 8,000m peaks​

Jamil Nagri
May 5, 2024

Naila Kiani becomes the first Pakistani to summit 11 8,000-metre peaks in the world. — Alpine Club of Pakistan Facebook

Mountaineer Naila Kiani on Sunday became the first Pakistani woman to summit 11 8,000m peaks in the world, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).

Kiani achieved this as she successfully climbed Nepal’s Makalu Peak, the world’s fifth-tallest mountain at 8,485 metres tall.

“Naila [Kiani] summits Makalu, becoming the first woman in Pakistan’s history to summit 11 x 8,000-metre peaks,” the ACP wrote in a post on Facebook today.

“She now holds the record as the fastest Pakistani — both male and female — to have summited 11 of the 8,000-metre peaks, accomplished in under three years,” said the statement, which quoted ACP Secretary Karrar Haidri.

“This remarkable feat also makes her the first Pakistani woman to have summited this incredibly difficult mountain,” Haidri further highlighted.

The ACP secretary noted that “after a challenging climb through the night, Naila has achieved another historic milestone by successfully summiting Makalu” at approximately 9:35am Nepal time (8:50am Pakistan time).

“Naila is grateful for all the prayers and wishes, and she gives special thanks to everyone,” the statement said. “She also thanks Sherpa Gelgen Dai from Imagine Nepal, who has supported Naila every step of the way, making this achievement possible,” Haidri added.

Kiani has a bunch of mountaineering feats to her name.

In April last year, she became the first Pakistani woman to climb Nepal’s Annapurna peak, the world’s 10th-highest peak standing 8,091m tall. The next month, she went on to summit Mount Everest, the world’s highest mountain, becoming the second Pakistani woman to do so.

In July, Kiani and Samina Baig attained the feat of becoming the first Pakistani women to climb the world’s ninth-highest peak, the 8,125m-tall Nanga Parbat. The same month, she became the first Pakistani woman to summit Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain at 8,051m.

Months later, Kiani and Sirbaz Khan became the first Pakistani duo to summit the 8,201m-tall Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest peak in China’s Tibet.

“I am sharing my achievements to show that no matter who you are … you can accomplish your dreams”, Kiani said in a video posted on ACP’s Facebook account days ago.
She shared her accolades, including being an aerospace engineer, an amateur boxer and a mother to two toddlers.

Emphasising that education was the key to her getting to where she is now, she also called on the prime minister and chief ministers to focus on girls’ education in Pakistan.

 

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[ghazi52]

Bob A. Schelfhout Aubertijn​

Born on this day, 1938.01.15; Ashraf Aman, Pakistani climber, who ascended K2 in 1977. He was the first from his country with this achievement.
[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Ashraf with a man named Kurt; intraisass.it] Happy Birthday, Ashraf, and a great many happy returns!

 

[ghazi52]

Congratulations to Shehroze on reaching the top of the magnificent Dhaulagiri, which stands at an impressive 8,167 meters and is the seventh-highest peak in the world.

Shehroze has accomplished a great feat by ascending 12 peaks higher than 8,000 meters, making him the youngest climber in the history of the mountaineering.

 

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EVEREST SUMMIT 8849 - M
Abdul Joshi from Shimshal valley of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan is part of a 13-member Everest expedition team led by Nepalese mountaineer Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Mingma G) of Imagine Nepal has summitted world highest mount Everest.

Abdul Joshi is the first Pakistani to summit Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091m, in 2021. He also led a 12-member Pakis¬tani team to the first-ever summit of Passu cones.

Mount Everest is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation of 8,848.86 m was most recently established in 2020 by the Chinese and Nepali authorities.

May 2022

 

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Sirbaz khan scales Everest without oxygen support​

khan is the second Pakistani to achieve this feat without using supplementary oxygen

News Desk
May 22, 2024

Sirbaz Khan, Pakistan's famous mountaineer after successfully scaling Mount Dhaulagiri (8167 metres) in Nepal. PHOTO: TWITTER/Alpine_Pakistan

Ace mountaineer Sirbaz Khan added another feather to his cap on Tuesday when he successfully scaled the world's tallest mountain, the Everest, only the second Pakistani to achieve this feat without using supplementary oxygen.

khan, who had previously summitted the 8,849-metre peak using bottled oxygen, reached the top at around half past 12. He emulated the achievement of Sajid Sidpara, who was the first to scale the Everest without oxygen support.

Sirbaz was part of the "Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition" team, which included 14 international climbers and 18 Sherpas, according to a Radio Pakistan report.

Some 20 years ago, when Sirbaz Khan joined a small expedition as a cook, it was not in his wildest imagination that he would become Pakistan’s first climber to ascend 13 out of the world’s total 14 peaks above 8,000 metres (over 26,240 feet) in 2023.

 

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Nepal sherpa scales Everest for record 30th time​

Mountain climbing is a key tourism activity, source of revenue and employment in Nepal

REUTERS
May 22, 2024

Kami Rita Sherpa, 53, a Nepali Mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest for a record 28 times, surrounded by his previous Guinness World Record certificates poses for a picture at his rented apartment in Kathmandu, Nepal May 28, 2023. PHOTO: REUTERS

KATHMANDU: A Nepali sherpa guide topped the summit of Mount Everest for a record 30th time on Wednesday, an official said, his second ascent in 10 days.

Ordinary climbers are known to take several days to climb the summit of Everest, and it is very rare for mountaineers to make multiple ascents in a short time.

Kami Rita Sherpa, 54, reached the 8,849-metre (29,032 foot) peak by the traditional southeast ridge route, Nepali tourism official Khim Lal Gautam said.

Kami Rita had climbed the peak for the 29th time on May 12.

He “broke his own record ... this marks his 30th ascent to the top of the world,” Gautam, chief of the expedition monitoring and facilitation field office at the base camp, said in a post on social media website X.

Kami Rita first climbed Everest in 1994, and has done so almost every year since, except for three years when authorities closed the mountain for various reasons.

Another sherpa climber has climbed Everest 27 times, the most summits after Kami Rita.

Mountain climbing is a key tourism activity, source of revenue and employment in Nepal, home to eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks.

Details of Kami Rita’s climb early on Wednesday were awaited, officials said.

 

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Everest record-setting female climber receives warm welcome in Kathmandu​

AFP
May 27, 2024

Kathmandu: Mountaineer guide Phunjo Lama greets the crowd upon her arrival at the Tribhuvan International airport, on Sunday.—AFP

KATHMANDU: Nepal’s Phunjo Jhangmu Lama, who smashed the record for the fastest ascent of Everest by a woman, said on Sunday she is not chasing records but climbing for her country.

Lama on Thursday conquered the world’s highest mountain in just 14 hours and 31 minutes — a feat that usually takes other climbers days to rest and acclimatise. The mountain guide and skilled helicopter long-line rescuer — flying in dangling from a rope to extract injured climbers — chopped more than 11 hours off the previous best that had stood since 2021.

Generations of men from Nepal, especially from the famed Sherpa community, have climbed the Himalayas, while their wives and daughters have traditionally kept the home fires burning. But in a sign of changing times, a string of Nepali women are now climbing and breaking records. “I don’t know if my climb will inspire other women,” Lama said, a mother of a daughter.

“But what I want to say is, that if we pursue this profession, there are many opportunities for women trekkers and climbers”.

 

[krash]

Sajid's attempt on Kanchenjunga this year has failed. They could not fix ropes beyond camp 4 due to the weather conditions. The teams are now returning after a second failed summit bid.

Earlier, Shehroze and Sirbaz's plan for Shishapangma had to be abandoned since the Chinese did not issue any permits this year, except for Everest.

 

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K2 Sky Adventour​

·

Congratulations to all on this incredible achievement!
More than 100 climbers scaled Mt #Everest this morning,
-------------
Peak: Mount Everest (8,848.86m)
Date: 19th May 2024
Team: 8kTeam A
*Everest Summiteer Members:

1. Mr. Valentyn Sypavin 2X times
2. Ms. Purnima Shrestha 2X Times
3. Mrs. Jyoti Ratre
4. Mr. Leo Ru Ping Chong
5. Mr. Henrik Lars Oliver Grethe
6. Mr. Nikolai Radutnyi
7. Mr. Alexandre Ben Brahim
8. Ms. Chen Xue
9. Mr. Shamin Umesh Asaikar
10. Ms. Alevtyna Kovalchuk
11. Mr. Volodymyr Petrov
12. Mr. Udaya Kerung
13. Ms. Chhiring Sherpa
14. Mr. Bambahadur BK
15. Mr. Wong Su Chung Nima Adventures
16. Mr. Elmehdi Amezzane
17. Mr. Abdul Samad Jamder
* Everest Summiteers Sherpa:
1. Mr. Dawa Ongju Sherpa
2. Mr. ⁠lakpa Nurbu sherpa
3. Mr. Ming Temba Sherpa
4. Mr. Dawa Geljen Sherpa
5. Mr. Pasrenji Sherpa
6. Mr. Guru Jenjen
7. Mr. Pasang Sherpa
8. Mr. Pasdawa Sherpa
9. Mr. Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa
10. Mr. Karma Gyaljen Sherpa
11. Mr. Guru Bhote
12. Me. Mingma Dorchee Sherpa
13. Mr. Pasang Sherpa
14. Mr. Sange Sherpa
15. Mr. Ming Dawa Sherpa
16. Mr. Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
17. Mr. Dawa Tenzi Sherpa
18. Mr. Ang Pasang Sherpa
19. Mr. Arjun Karki
20. Mr. ⁠Ming Nurbu Sherpa
21. Mr. Pasang Tenjing Sherpa
14 Peaks Expedition's
At 3:00 AM:
1. Bin Xu
2. Cheng Gao
3. Ngwang Tashi Sherpa
At 5:00 AM:
4. Chunqi Yan
5. Sher Jangbu Sherpa
At 6:00 AM:
4. Hongjun Liu
5. Hui Chen
6. Qingliang Zhang
7. Huijuan Ma
8. Guy Bolton
Additionally, the following Sherpas reached the summit:
- Karma Galje Sherpa
- Dawa Rinje Sherpa
- Furba Kusang Sherpa
- Mingma Tenji Sherpa
- Fur Tile Sherpa
- Nuru Jangbu Sherpa

 

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K2 Sky Adventour​

"One of the biggest accomplishments in recent ski mountaineering history." American alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan:

https://bit.ly/3K87BJe

 

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Haji Mehdi Askoli & little Karim world famous climber memorable Picture 1989.

 

[krash]

View attachment 43710

Leaves him 1 more to complete his 14 and 3 more to complete his 14 without O2. At least in Nepal, he climbs along side the Sherpas as a HAP, fixing ropes for the commercial teams and carrying his own loads without O2! Fitting first Pakistani to get the 14, iA.

PS: love this thread.

K2 Sky Adventour​

"One of the biggest accomplishments in recent ski mountaineering history." American alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan:

https://bit.ly/3K87BJe

They found a line when no one thought that there could be one. It will soon vanish with the summer melt.

Lustenberg is Canadian, though.