General Mountaineering Thread

[ghazi52]

GB govt urged to reverse hike in royalty, mountaineering fees​

Jamil Nagri
January 20, 2025

Rakaposhi tournament, held in the lap of ice-capped mountains, concluded on Friday

GILGIT: Tour operators have expressed concerns over the steep hike in royalty and mountaineering fees, alleging that the Gilgit-Baltistan government’s decision is detrimental to the region’s growing adventure tourism sector.

They claimed that the move has already rendered many people jobless due to a significant drop in tourist footfall.

Expressing serious concerns over the move, representatives from Pakistan Association of Tour Operators (Pato), Gilgit-Baltistan Tour Operators Association (GBATO) and other tour operating associations have written to GB Chief Minister Haji Gulbar Khan, federal government officials and other stakeholders, urging them to withdraw the decision.

They were of the opinion that the mountainous region was home to the world’s highest peaks including five eight-thousanders and over 100 seven-thousanders. Foreign and national adventure-seekers, including climbers and trekkers, visit Gilgit-Baltistan in large numbers every year.

However, they said the Gilgit-Baltistan government significantly jacked up the royalty and mountaineering fees, including trekking permits fee, making them the “most expensive” in the region. They explained that one foreign expedition on K-2 fetched about $60,000 to GB, benefiting the government, tour operators, the hospitality sector, transporters, the aviation sector, high-altitude porters and rescue service providers.

“However, the recent increase in the royalty and permit fees has made it hard for the tour operators to sell mountain expeditions and treks to foreign and domestic clients,” they pointed out.

Tour operators expressed reservations that they were not considered a stakeholder while formulating the policy.

Speaking to Dawn, Naiknaam Karim, former general secretary of Pato, said the Pakistan destination image was weak yet with joint efforts it was improved in recent years. Subsequently, a large number of international tourists had started coming to Pakistan for trekking and tourism. He said a large number of locals depend on tourism for their livelihoods.

Mr Karim made it clear that the economic benefits from foreign tourism didn’t come from government fees, but rather from the money spent on adventure activities. “When foreigners come to Pakistan, they bring foreign exchange, which is a great source of earnings for the country,” he said. He cited the example of trekking fees, which foreigners have to pay $500 for in Pakistan, whereas in Nepal, the trekking fee is only $30. The trekking fees in Pakistan varies by location and altitude, with an average fee of $500.

However, according to him, now after the recent hike one foreigner had to pay more than $4,000 royalty fee to climb one of the eight thousanders in GB, while in Nepal royalty fee for climbing eight thousanders was $1,800 per client. He said the local tour operators were finding it hard to attract foreign clients. They were worried that foreign mountaineers and trekkers would prefer Nepal and other countries that charge less than what Pakistan is charging for trekking and climbing peaks.

The move had not only affected tourism industry but also impacted the hospitality and transport sectors, while rendering thousands of shopkeepers, porters and other people in Gilgit-Baltistan jobless.

 

[ghazi52]

Pakistan : 05 of the World's Top 14 highest mountains. 14* 8000ers, Highest peaks of the world , are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges - across Pakistan ,Nepal, Tibet (China).

 

[ghazi52]

Four Pakistani mountaineers launch high-altitude missions in Nepal​

Four Pakistani mountaineers aim for Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga in daring Himalayan expeditions this season.

Sports Desk
May 05, 2025

Four of Pakistan’s top high-altitude climbers have embarked on ambitious expeditions in Nepal, aiming to scale some of the world’s tallest and most dangerous peaks this spring climbing season, including Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga.

Leading the charge is Sajid Ali Sadpara, son of the late legendary mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who is attempting to summit Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the seventh-highest mountain in the world.

Sadpara reached base camp on April 6, completed his acclimatisation up to Camp 3, and is now awaiting a clear weather window for a summit push expected around May 9.

He is adhering to Alpine style climbing — without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. A successful climb would mark his ninth 8,000m+ summit under such conditions. His previous feats include K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, and both Gasherbrum I and II.

Meanwhile, Naila Kiani, Pakistan’s most decorated female mountaineer, has begun her approach to Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain.

Her trek to base camp is expected to span a week. Kiani has already summited 11 of the 14 highest peaks on Earth and remains the only Pakistani woman to do so.

Joining her on Kanchenjunga is Sirbaz Khan, who on April 7 summited Annapurna (8,091m) without oxygen.

With 13 eight-thousanders under his belt, Kanchenjunga represents the final peak in his bid to become the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000m giants, mostly without oxygen.

Also on the slopes is Wajidullah Nagri, who has reached Everest Base Camp as he prepares for his own summit attempt. Nagri has previously climbed five major Pakistani peaks, including K2 and Nanga Parbat.

With all four climbers at pivotal points in their careers, this season could prove historic for Pakistani mountaineering on the world stage.

 

[krash]

Four Pakistani mountaineers launch high-altitude missions in Nepal​

Four Pakistani mountaineers aim for Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga in daring Himalayan expeditions this season.

Sports Desk
May 05, 2025

Four of Pakistan’s top high-altitude climbers have embarked on ambitious expeditions in Nepal, aiming to scale some of the world’s tallest and most dangerous peaks this spring climbing season, including Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Kanchenjunga.

Leading the charge is Sajid Ali Sadpara, son of the late legendary mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who is attempting to summit Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the seventh-highest mountain in the world.

Sadpara reached base camp on April 6, completed his acclimatisation up to Camp 3, and is now awaiting a clear weather window for a summit push expected around May 9.

He is adhering to Alpine style climbing — without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. A successful climb would mark his ninth 8,000m+ summit under such conditions. His previous feats include K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, and both Gasherbrum I and II.

Meanwhile, Naila Kiani, Pakistan’s most decorated female mountaineer, has begun her approach to Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain.

Her trek to base camp is expected to span a week. Kiani has already summited 11 of the 14 highest peaks on Earth and remains the only Pakistani woman to do so.

Joining her on Kanchenjunga is Sirbaz Khan, who on April 7 summited Annapurna (8,091m) without oxygen.

With 13 eight-thousanders under his belt, Kanchenjunga represents the final peak in his bid to become the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000m giants, mostly without oxygen.

Also on the slopes is Wajidullah Nagri, who has reached Everest Base Camp as he prepares for his own summit attempt. Nagri has previously climbed five major Pakistani peaks, including K2 and Nanga Parbat.

With all four climbers at pivotal points in their careers, this season could prove historic for Pakistani mountaineering on the world stage.

Sirbaz has already climbed all 14 8thousanders. He is now repeating the ones that he had previously climbed with oxygen.

 

[ghazi52]

Sajid Sadpara summits world’s seventh highest mountain without oxygen​

Jamil Nagri
May 11, 2025​

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Renowned Pakistani climber Sajid Ali Sadpara on Saturday summited the world’s seventh highest peak — Dhaulagiri at 8,167 metres — without oxygen or porter support.On May 4, four Pakistani climbers began their expedition to climb Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal. Sadpara had reached the base camp of the peak on April 6 and had begun his rotation and climbed up to the Camp 3 and descended to the base camp.The feat, confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, marks Sadpara’s ninth 8,000m peak, all of which were climbed without bottled oxygen and were completely unsupported.​

In a statement, Seven Summit Treks said the team successfully reached the summit starting at 9:35am on Saturday, marking the first confirmed ascent of Dhaulagiri in the Spring 2025 season.

The expedition team had previously fixed ropes up to 8,050m and launched their final summit push during a favourable weather window.

The team began their summit push from Camp IV at 6:15pm on Friday, making relentless efforts to reach the top while simultaneously securing the final section of the route by fixing over 350m of rope.

This year, Kangchenjunga has seen an impressive turnout, with nearly 70 international climbers and an equal number of Sherpas taking on the challenge.

“At just 29 years old, Sajid has displayed remarkable endurance, resilience, and dedication to high-altitude mountaineering,” the Alpine Club of Pakistan said in a statement.

His Dhaulagiri expedition was organised by Seven Summit Treks Nepal and Sabroso Pakistan, with technical gear sponsored by Kailas.

“[Sadpara] is the proud son of the legendary Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who tragically lost his life during a winter ascent of K2 in 2021. Carrying his father’s legacy with honour, Sajid has emerged as a powerful symbol of Pakistani mountaineering strength and global excellence.

Karrar Haidri, secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, congratulated Sadpara, calling it “a historic milestone that reflects the strength and courage of Pakistani climbers on the world stage”.

“This is another proud moment for Pakistan and the mountaineering world!”

While speaking to Dawn.com before beginning his summit push, Sadpara had said he would attempt to climb the peak without supplement oxygen and porter support.

Sadpara has already summited eight of the world’s peaks above 8,000m, including Everest, K2 , Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, and Gasherbrum-II.

He has also taken part in rescue operations at several peaks including K2, and plans to summit all 14 peaks above 8,000m.

Sadpara has made a name for himself in the alpine community with his summits of the most daunting peaks at a young age.

He has climbed K2 twice; once without supplemental oxygen. He also set records when he summited both Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II peaks in three days and 18 hours without supplementary oxygen.

In February 2021, his father Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Iceland’s John Snorri and Chile’s Juan Pablo Mohr went missing while attempting to summit the K2 during the winter season.

Their bodies were found in July, nearly five months after they went missing.

Sadpara described the search for the bodies of his father and other missing climbers as “the most challenging and extraordinary mission” of his life.

“First, the summit of K2 itself was a dangerous adventure and the burial of my father above eight thousand metres was heartbreaking,” he said.

“It was impossible to take the bodies back to base camp so we decided to bury them on the mountain.”

Now, Sajid Sadpara said his mission to summit all 14 peaks above eight-thousand metres altitude without supplementary oxygen would be the fulfilment of his father’s dream.

For him, climbing was something he was born to take up.

“When you get an environment where you listen and practice only to become a mountaineer, you definitely become one,” he explained while talking about his father’s training.

 

[ghazi52]

Two climbers, from India and Philippines, die on Everest​

Reuters
May 16, 2025

An Indian climber and another from the Philippines became the first mountaineers to die on Mount Everest in the current March-May climbing season of the world’s highest peak, hiking officials said on Friday.

Subrata Ghosh, 45, from India, died on Thursday below the Hillary Step while returning after reaching the 8,849-metre (29,032 feet) peak.

“He refused to descend from below the Hillary Step,” said Bodhraj Bhandari of Nepal’s Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition organising company. No other details were available.

The Hillary Step is located in the ‘death zone’, an area between 8,000-metre (26,250 ft) high South Col and the summit where the level of natural oxygen is inadequate for survival.

“Efforts are underway to bring his body down to the base camp. The cause of his death will be known only after post mortem,” Bhandari said.

Philipp II Santiago, 45, from the Philippines, died late on Wednesday at the South Col while he was on his way up, said Himal Gautam, a tourism department official.

Santiago was tired when he reached the fourth high camp and died while resting in his tent, Gautam added.

Santiago and Ghose were both members of an international expedition organised by Bhandari.

Nepal has issued 459 permits to climb Everest during the current season that ends in May. Nearly 100 climbers and their guides have already reached the summit this week.

Mountain climbing, trekking and tourism is a source of income and employment for Nepal, one of the poorest countries in the world.

At least 345 people have died on Everest in more than 100 years since summiting expeditions were known to have started, according to the Himalayan data base and hiking officials.

 

[ghazi52]

Naila Kiani scales world’s third-highest peak Kanchenjunga​

Jamil Nagri
May 23, 2025



Mountaineer Naila Kiani on Friday summited Mount Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain situated in Nepal, becoming the only Pakistani female mountaineer to summit the world’s 12 highest mountains above eight thousand metres.

The summit marked a historic milestone in her pursuit of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000m.

Speaking to Dawn.com today, Mingma G, famous Nepali climber and the owner of Imagine Nepal, said that Kiani stood at top of the peak at 6am local time (5:15 am PKT).

Mingma G added that after the successful summit, the expedition team started their descent to camp four and were heading towards basecamp.

Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan, Karrar Haidri, congratulated Kiani for the feat.

According to press release issued by Kiani’s team, the achievement cemented her place not only in Pakistan’s mountaineering history but also on the global stage, etching closer to a rare and elite global record: becoming one of fewer than 20 women in history to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks.

It said that the summit push began at approximately 6:30pm on Thursday and continued through the night in severe high-altitude conditions, including intense snowfall and sub-zero temperatures.

“Despite the challenges, Kiani safely reached the summit, driven by unshakable determination and the support of a nation behind her,” the statement said.

“From Pakistan to Kanchenjunga, this summit is not just a personal milestone, it’s a message to every girl and woman in Pakistan and beyond: you are stronger than you think,” Naila said during her descent, according to the statement.

“I’m proud and grateful, but the journey has just started. Pakistan, this is for you.”

Before starting the summit push, through a message to her team, Kiani had said, “Climbing Kanchenjunga has been an incredibly difficult expedition and a harsh reminder of how hard it is to climb mountains over 8,000m.”

Kiani has already summited 11 out of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000m, including Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II, Annapurna, Lhotse, Manaslu, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

“Kanchenjunga is known for its treacherous terrains and unpredictable weather,” she added.

“But with determination and the support of my family, team and followers, I’m hopeful for a successful summit.”

Kiani has a bunch of mountaineering feats to her name.

Earlier this month, Kiani became the first Pakistani woman to summit 11 8,000m peaks in the world.

In April last year, she became the first Pakistani woman to climb Nepal’s Annapurna peak, the world’s 10th-highest peak, standing 8,091m tall. The next month, she went on to summit Mount Everest, the world’s highest mountain, becoming the second Pakistani woman to do so.

In July, Kiani attained the feat of becoming the first Pakistani woman to climb the world’s ninth-highest peak, the 8,125m Nanga Parbat. The same month, she became the first Pakistani woman to summit Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain at 8,051m.

Months later, Kiani and Sirbaz Khan became the first Pakistani duo to summit the 8,201m Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest peak in China’s Tibet.

 

[ghazi52]

Pakistan’s pride and mountaineering icon, Naila Kiani, has successfully summited Kanchenjunga (8,586m)—the world’s third highest mountain, becoming the first Pakistani woman to conquer this formidable peak.

With this milestone, Naila now stands among an elite group of global mountaineers, having scaled 12 out of the world’s 14 highest peaks above 8,000 meters, continuing her unprecedented journey of defying limits.

With just two summits remaining, she is edging closer to becoming one of only 17 women in the world to have conquered all 14 of the planet’s 8,000-meter giants.

Naila is not only a climber but a change-maker. She has led environmental campaigns, such as a high-altitude cleanup at K2, and a recovery mission for Pakistani porter Muhammad Hassan Shigri, bringing closure to his grieving family.

As a mother of two, a former banker, and a passionate advocate for sustainable climbing, Naila Kiani defies traditional molds and inspires a new generation of Pakistanis, especially young women, to dream beyond the boundaries placed before them.

Naila Kiani’s rise in the mountaineering world is as inspiring as it is unprecedented. From her first successful summit of Gasherbrum II—achieved while balancing a demanding career in finance and the responsibilities of motherhood—to conquering giants such as Everest, K2, Lhotse, Annapurna I, and Makalu, she has consistently defied the odds and broken barriers

 

[ghazi52]

 

[ghazi52]

 

[krash]

Sirbaz has already climbed all 14 8thousanders. He is now repeating the ones that he had previously climbed with oxygen.

With Kanchenjunga, Sirbaz has now completed his 14 without O2. He did it while breaking trails, fixing ropes, carrying loads, and guiding clients up there. What a great guy this man is. Truly deserved.

Pakistanis won't realize what this man has done for us.

 

[Starlord]

At some point in life, I want to go camping at K2 base camp, have no intension to even try get on top, hum base camp tak jane mai hi khush hai

 

[ghazi52]

Nepali Sherpa scales Mount Everest for a record 31st time​

Reuters
May 27, 2025

Kami Rita Sherpa waves upon his arrival after climbing Mount Everest for the 28th time in Kathmandu, Nepal, May 25, 2023. — Reuters.

Nepali Sherpa guide Kami Rita scaled Mount Everest for the 31st time on Tuesday, breaking the record he set last year.

The 55-year-old reached the 8,849-metre (29,032 foot) peak — the highest in the world — by the traditional southeast ridge route while guiding a 22-member Indian army team, officials said, adding that 27 other Sherpas also accompanied the group.

“He is a very passionate climber,” said Pasang Phurba, director of the Seven Summit Treks company for which Kami Rita works, adding that Kami Rita was currently descending to lower camps.

Kami Rita, who uses only his first name, first climbed Everest in 1994 and has done so every year except for three years when authorities closed the mountain to climbers for various reasons.

More than 8,000 people have climbed Mount Everest since it was first scaled by New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

After Kami Rita, another Sherpa, Pasang Dawa, has ascended Everest the most with 29 climbs. Among non-Sherpa climbers, the record is held by British guide Kenton Cool who has accomplished the feat 19 times, followed by American climbers Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison with 15 times each.

One of the poorest countries in the world, Nepal is home to eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks and is heavily reliant on climbing, trekking, and tourism for foreign exchange. Guiding foreign climbers to Everest and other peaks provides crucial family income to many Sherpas.

Authorities have issued 468 permits to climbers for Everest this March-May climbing season, and more than 300 climbers and Sherpas have already scaled the peak, officials said.

Two climbers are known to have died on the mountain this month and there have also been unconfirmed reports of other deaths.

 

[ghazi52]

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[ghazi52]

German climber paraglides down Nanga Parbat​

Jamil Nagri
July 3, 2025

German alpinist David Göttler with the French duo of Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein. — Photo by the writer

David Göttler makes his way down from the Nanga Parbat summit. —Photo by the writer

GILGIT: Three European mountaineers have made history by ascending the formidable Nanga Parbat via its Rupal Face in alpine style, and descending in spectacular fashion.

German alpinist David Göttler made his way down via paraglider, while the French duo of Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein etched themselves into the history books by skiing down the peak, nicknamed ‘The Killer Mountain’.

CEO of Adventure Tours Pakistan Naiknaam Karim told Dawn that the three foreign climbers began their summit attempt on Nanga Parbat, via the Schell route.

The trio climbed from the approximately 3,600-metre-high base camp to the summit between June 21 and 24.

Göttler, 47, had planned to descend from the top by paraglider.

However, upon reaching the summit, strong winds forced him to launch his paraglider from 7,700 metres instead. He successfully flew from that altitude and landed at base camp in 30 minutes, according to the organisers.

Michael Beek, a German tour operator, mountain guide, and paragliding instructor, congratulated Göttler in a Facebook post, writing that Göttler had made a historic first.

“Summiting Nanga Parbat in alpine style with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein was incredible; but to be able to fly down from 7,700m all the way back to base camp on the same day has brought my joy to the next level,” he said.

Meanwhile, his French companions, Duperier and Langenstein, camped the night at 7,625m, and later skied and trekked down the massive Rupal Face, which rises 4,600 meters from base camp, arriving three days later.

Theirs is considered the first ski descent of the Rupal Face, and a first from the summit of Nanga Parbat.

Published in Dawn, July 3rd, 2025