Resting in the Raj
A network of Dak Bungalows & rest houses offered lodging to the ever-mobile British officials in colonial India
By
SYED ALI HAMID
November 17, 2024
KARACHI: British India was a vast colony and its officials were frequently on the move to oversee its affairs. Collectors and deputy collectors embarked on regular tours of their districts, managing diverse administrative tasks and ensuring revenue collection. Forest officers ventured deep into jungles to supervise their conservation and management, and DIGs and superintendents of the police toured their districts to survey law and order, and listen to complaints.
Officials of the Public Works Department (PWD) supervised various construction projects including roads and highways, while canals and irrigation officers spent months in the field overseeing the construction of major headworks and canals.
During their journeys, all these officials, as well as British traders, hunters, army officers (who toured areas from where their soldiers were recruited), and a host of others, needed a place to spend the night – except for Railway Officials who traveled in saloons.
It was during the tenure of Lord Auckland as Governor General (1836 to 1842) that the first Dak Bungalows were commissioned by the East India Company (EIC) under a decree that stated that such structures “… would be a nice place to put your head to rest and belly in peace.” Dak Bungalows were primarily for the postal department, but they also provided accommodation for officials of other departments.
The word ‘dak’ is derived from the Urdu word for ‘post’. Before the British, the rulers in the Subcontinent established Dak Sarais which were staging posts for the carrier of the official mail. It is most likely that Dak Bungalows acquired this name because they were built where the staging posts had existed since earlier times.
The word bungalow originated from the Hindi word ‘bangla’ for the huts of peasants and in the hands of the engineering department of the EIC, it transformed from ‘bangla’ to ‘bangalla’, and finally, bungalow.
Dak Bungalows were 10 to 15 miles apart on the main arteries of communication so that a traveler did not require a tent and other necessities. On some less frequented routes, they were 40-50 miles apart adapted to a day's run in a palanquin. As the Crown extended itself into the countryside, so did the Dak Bungalows. A shade below in standard and cheaper were the rest houses that replicated the ‘khidmatgarh’ [resting houses] of the Mughals and provided accommodation for a broader range of travelers.
In 1855 the East India Company established the overarching PWD, which played a major role in laying the foundation for a modern infrastructure in colonial India. Under the PWD a fairly standard design emerged for the rest houses and exhibited the confluence of Indo-British architecture – with thick walls and high ceilings to ward off the heat.
They were constructed with bricks and painted a distinct yellow that was referred to as PWD Yellow. The inner structure consisted of a sitting and dining room with quaint fireplaces and two to three bedrooms. It was encircled by a verandah part of which was portioned off for a kitchen and bathrooms attached to the bedrooms. The compound was enclosed by a low wall to keep out grazing animals.
Like the words ‘dak’ and ‘bungalow’, ‘verandah’ and ‘compound’ were also derived from regional languages. Verandah is derived from the Persian word baramdah, which also means terrace. When adopted by Hindi, it meant a covered or partially enclosed outdoor space attached to a building, typically with a roof supported by columns. Compound may have been derived from kampungs [large enclosers] of the British factories in Malaya and from where it spread to other parts of the Empire.
In warmer latitudes, the bungalows had a sloping thatched roof with a dirty grey cloth underneath to stop vermin and insects from falling on the unwary occupant. Reclining in bed after a hard day march, in the dim light of the lantern he was left to identify the species of vermin whose paws scuttled across the grey cloth chased by the occasional snake.
Henry Newman of the Statesman newspaper, who once found a leopard on the bed in the Central Provinces, wrote of “Civet cats who galloped across the ceiling cloth, snakes in the compound, bats which stink worse than a cartload of monkeys have flopped on my face or into my plate, red ants that sting, centipedes, to say nothing about jackals which howled like a woman in mortal agony, and, in the rains, millions of green flies and flying bugs were ordinary happenings”. Nights became less stressful when the grass roofs with their dirty grey clots were replaced by flat, terraced roofs.